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Lamb Kidney Vol-au-vent (rognons d'agneau en caisses)

A fine starter from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: blanched lamb kidneys, sliced and fried with onion, mixed into brown sauce with sherry, mushroom, truffle, and small meatballs, served in paper cases or hollowed-out fried white-bread rounds.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 245 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A finer starter from the offal chapter of "Stor kokebok" (1914). Erken places the dish within the French-inspired tradition of serving small ragouts in paper cases ("caisses") or in hollowed-out, fried bread rounds – the forerunner of today's vol-au-vent and tartlet dishes.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Blanch the kidneys

    Put the kidneys in boiling water for 2 minutes. Lift them out, dry them, and pull off the membrane. Split them in two lengthwise and cut them into slices.

  2. 2

    Brown onion and kidneys

    Heat the butter in a pan and lightly brown the onion. Add the kidney slices and toss them over the heat for 3–4 minutes.

  3. 3

    Make the ragout

    Bring the brown sauce to a boil. Stir in salt, pepper, sherry, the kidneys, the mushrooms, the finely cut truffle, and the very small meatballs. Heat everything well through in the sauce, but do not let it boil.

  4. 4

    Plate

    Fill the ragout into small, buttered paper cases or into hollowed-out, round white-bread rounds fried in butter. Arrange at once on a napkin and serve immediately and very hot.

Changes from the original

Amounts converted to modern measures (deciliters, grams, tablespoons), and unspecified amounts (kidneys, mushrooms, truffles, meatballs, bread) are estimated. The OCR error "vannes" is interpreted as "varmes" (heated). The language of the method has been modernized, but no ingredients have been added or removed.

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Tidsmaskin – hva endret seg?

Velg to utgaver og se hva Henriette Schønberg Erken la til, fjernet eller endret mellom dem.

Fra1914Modernisert
Til1914Modernisert
1914 (korrekturlest, s. 245) → Modernisert~83% av teksten endretfjernetlagt til
Nyrer 8 stk lammenyrer (ca. 2 per porsjon). 30 gr. smør 1 1/4 del. g smør. 1,25 dl brun saus (ferdig brun grunnsaus). 1 spiseske sherry ss sherry. 0,5 ts salt (etter smak). 0,25 ts pepper (etter smak). 1 stk liten løk champignons trøfler smaa kjøtboller franskbrød. Nyrerne lægges (finhakket). 100 g sjampinjonger (i skiver). 1 ss trøffel (finskåret, kan sløyfes). 12 stk små kjøttboller (ferdigkokte, helt små). 4 skiver loff (tykke skiver til utholing, eller små papirformer). Legg nyrene i kokende vand vann i 2 minutter, tørres, hinden trækkes av; deles langsefter minutter. Ta dem opp, tørk dem og trekk av hinnen. Del dem i to på langs og skjæres skjær dem i skiver. Smørret varmes, skiver.. Varm smøret i en panne og brun løken let heri; ryst de opskaarne nyrer heri lett. Ha i nyreskivene og rist dem over varmen 3 à 4 minutter. Sausen gives et opkok, rør i 3–4 minutter.. Kok opp den brune sausen. Rør inn salt, pepper, sherry, nyrer, champignons, finskaarne trøfler nyrene, sjampinjongene, den finskårne trøffelen og de ganske smaa kjøtboller; små kjøttbollene. Varm alt varmes godt gjennom i sausen, men skal la det ikke koke. — Stuingen fyldes koke.. Fyll stuingen i smaa, små, smurte papiræsker papirformer eller i uthulede, runde, stekte franskbrødskiver. Anrettes utholede, runde loffskiver stekt i smør. Anrett straks paa på en serviet serviett og maa serveres øieblikkelig server øyeblikkelig og meget varm. Lammenyrer tilberedes og anrettes ellers som kalvenyrer. varmt.

Note til Modernisert

Mengder er omregnet til moderne mål (desiliter, gram, spiseskjeer), og uspesifiserte mengder (nyrer, sopp, trøfler, kjøttboller, brød) er anslått. OCR-feilen «vannes» er tolket som «varmes». Språket i fremgangsmåten er modernisert, men ingen ingredienser er lagt til eller fjernet.

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Frequently asked questions

Why should the kidneys not boil in the sauce?
Kidneys become tough and hard with further cooking. They are fried only 3–4 minutes in butter with onion, then heated well through in the brown sauce without letting it come to a rolling boil.
How do you clean the lamb kidneys?
Put the kidneys in boiling water for 2 minutes, dry them, pull off the membrane, split them lengthwise in two, and cut them into slices.
What is the dish served in?
The ragout is filled into small, buttered paper cases or into hollowed-out, round, fried white-bread rounds. It is arranged on a napkin and must be served immediately and very hot.
What else goes into the sauce?
Brown sauce (1 1/4 dl) seasoned with salt, pepper, and a tablespoon of sherry, and enriched with mushroom, finely cut truffle, and very small meatballs together with the kidneys. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), p. 245.

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