Why should the kidneys not boil in the sauce?

Kidneys become tough and hard with further cooking. They are fried only 3–4 minutes in butter with onion, then heated well through in the brown sauce without letting it come to a rolling boil.

How do you clean the lamb kidneys?

Put the kidneys in boiling water for 2 minutes, dry them, pull off the membrane, split them lengthwise in two, and cut them into slices.

What is the dish served in?

The ragout is filled into small, buttered paper cases or into hollowed-out, round, fried white-bread rounds. It is arranged on a napkin and must be served immediately and very hot.

What else goes into the sauce?

Brown sauce (1 1/4 dl) seasoned with salt, pepper, and a tablespoon of sherry, and enriched with mushroom, finely cut truffle, and very small meatballs together with the kidneys. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), p. 245.

Lamb Kidney Vol-au-vent (rognons d'agneau en caisses)

A fine starter from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: blanched lamb kidneys, sliced and fried with onion, mixed into brown sauce with sherry, mushroom, truffle, and small meatballs, served in paper cases or hollowed-out fried white-bread rounds.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 245 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A finer starter from the offal chapter of "Stor kokebok" (1914). Erken places the dish within the French-inspired tradition of serving small ragouts in paper cases ("caisses") or in hollowed-out, fried bread rounds – the forerunner of today's vol-au-vent and tartlet dishes.

How to make it

1
Blanch the kidneys
Put the kidneys in boiling water for 2 minutes. Lift them out, dry them, and pull off the membrane. Split them in two lengthwise and cut them into slices.
2
Brown onion and kidneys
Heat the butter in a pan and lightly brown the onion. Add the kidney slices and toss them over the heat for 3–4 minutes.
3
Make the ragout
Bring the brown sauce to a boil. Stir in salt, pepper, sherry, the kidneys, the mushrooms, the finely cut truffle, and the very small meatballs. Heat everything well through in the sauce, but do not let it boil.
4
Plate
Fill the ragout into small, buttered paper cases or into hollowed-out, round white-bread rounds fried in butter. Arrange at once on a napkin and serve immediately and very hot.

Changes from the original

Amounts converted to modern measures (deciliters, grams, tablespoons), and unspecified amounts (kidneys, mushrooms, truffles, meatballs, bread) are estimated. The OCR error "vannes" is interpreted as "varmes" (heated). The language of the method has been modernized, but no ingredients have been added or removed.

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Frequently asked questions

Why should the kidneys not boil in the sauce?: Kidneys become tough and hard with further cooking. They are fried only 3–4 minutes in butter with onion, then heated well through in the brown sauce without letting it come to a rolling boil.
How do you clean the lamb kidneys?: Put the kidneys in boiling water for 2 minutes, dry them, pull off the membrane, split them lengthwise in two, and cut them into slices.
What is the dish served in?: The ragout is filled into small, buttered paper cases or into hollowed-out, round, fried white-bread rounds. It is arranged on a napkin and must be served immediately and very hot.
What else goes into the sauce?: Brown sauce (1 1/4 dl) seasoned with salt, pepper, and a tablespoon of sherry, and enriched with mushroom, finely cut truffle, and very small meatballs together with the kidneys. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), p. 245.

Equipment for this dish

Meat grinder →Erken ground her own forcemeat – your own grinder lets you control fat and coarseness.Foodstuff.no

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