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Boiled smoked ham in aspic (jambon à la gelée)

Erken's boiled smoked ham in aspic (1914): a 5–6 kg ham is soaked overnight, gently boiled about 4 hours, cooled in the stock, the rind removed, and the ham glazed with meat aspic and decorated with aspic shapes and stuffed olives. A paper frill around the bone. Served cold with Madeira sauce. If the bone is to come out, the ham is taken up warm, the bone removed, and the ham pressed in a cloth.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 254 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A classic cold dish for the cold table and festive occasions. The ham is boiled slowly, cooled in the stock, glazed with meat aspic and decorated with cut-out shapes of set aspic and stuffed olives. A paper frill was tied around the bone — a typical early-1900s presentation.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Soak

    Place the ham in water overnight. Wash it well and trim it.

  2. 2

    Boil the ham

    Place the ham in cold water, bring slowly to the boiling point and skim well. Let the ham poach gently (do not boil hard) for about 4 hours.

  3. 3

    Rest in the stock

    Let the ham lie in the stock for half an hour, covered. Take it out and remove the rind.

  4. 4

    Cool

    Return the ham to the stock and let it lie until it is nearly cold. Press a cloth against the meat to remove all dissolved fat.

  5. 5

    Glaze with aspic

    When the ham is cold, pour meat aspic over it. When the aspic has set, decorate with cut-out leaves or shapes of set meat aspic.

  6. 6

    Decorate and serve

    Dip stuffed olives in aspic and set them in a row where the rind has been cut away. Wrap a paper frill around the bone and place a little greenery along it. Serve with Madeira sauce.

  7. 7

    If the bone is to be removed

    If the ham is to be served cold, it is best cooled in the stock — unless the bone is to be removed. If the bone is to come out, the ham is taken out immediately, opened on the inside and the bone taken out. Roll the ham up, tie it firmly into the cloth and cool under a weight. The rind is pulled off as soon as the ham is boiled.

Changes from the original

Measures and temperatures are specified (poaching temperature, core temperature mentioned as guidance). «Kjøtgelé» is kept but explained as aspic/clear meat-stock jelly. «Kjøtklæde» is modernized to cloth.

Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

1914 (proofread, p. 254) → Modernised~77% of the text changedremovedadded
5,5 kg røkt skinke (med ben). 1 skinke, 5 à l kjøttgelé (aspic) (klar, til glasering og dekor). 6 kg. kjøtgelé (aspic). Skinken vandes ut stk fylte oliven (til dekor). vann (til utvanning og koking). madeirasaus (til servering). Legg skinken i vann natten over, vaskes over. Vask den godt og avpudses; sættes over ilden puss den av.. Legg skinken i koldt vand og bringes kaldt vann, bring langsomt til kokepunktet, skum kokepunktet og la skum godt. La skinken smaatrække trekke svakt (ikke fosskoke) i en omkring 4 timer. Skinken blir liggende timer.. La skinken ligge i kraften ½ en halv time under lok. Tages op, lokk. Ta den opp og svoren fjernes; fjern svoren.. Legg skinken lægges igjen tilbake i kraften og blir liggende, la den ligge til den er omtrent kold. Et kjøtklæde trykkes nesten kald. Trykk et klede mot flesket for at faa å få bort alt opløst fett. Naar oppløst fett.. Når skinken er kold, heldes kjøtgelé over, og naar denne kald, hell kjøttgelé over. Når geléen er stivnet, dekoreres dekorer med utskaarne blade utskårne blader eller figurer av stivnet kjøtgelé. Fyldte kjøttgelé.. Dypp fylte oliven dyppes i gele gelé og sættes langsefter, hvor sett dem på rad der svoren er skaaret skåret av. Om Vikle en papirmansjett om benet virres papirmansjet, og legg litt grønt lægges langsmed denne igjen. Serveres langs den. Server med madeirasaus. NB. Naar madeirasaus.. Skal skinken skal anrettes kold, skal kald, avkjøles den helst avkjøles i suppen, hvis ikke kraften — med mindre benet skal uttages. I tilfælde herav, tages den fjernes. Skal benet ut, tas skinken straks op, aapnes paa indersiden, opp, åpnes på innsiden og benet tages tas ut. Skinken rulles Rull skinken sammen, bindes bind den fast ind inn i kjøtklædet kledet og avkjøles avkjøl under pres. press. Svoren trækkes av, trekkes av straks skinken er kokt.

Note on Modernised

Mål og temperaturer presisert (trekketemperatur, kjernetemperatur nevnt som veiledning). «Kjøtgelé» beholdt, men forklart som aspic/klar kjøttkraftgelé. «Kjøtklæde» modernisert til klede/klut.

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Frequently asked questions

How long must the ham be prepared before boiling?
The ham is soaked overnight, washed well and trimmed. That is why the total time is around 20 hours, while the actual boiling takes about 4 hours.
How is the ham boiled?
It is set over in cold water and brought slowly to the boiling point, skimmed and poached gently for about 4 hours. Then it stands ½ hour in the stock, covered, the rind is removed, and it is returned to the stock until it is nearly cold.
How is the ham decorated?
Meat aspic is poured over the cold ham. When the aspic has set, it is decorated with cut-out leaves or shapes of set aspic, and stuffed olives dipped in aspic are set in a row where the rind has been cut away. A paper frill is wrapped around the bone, and a little greenery is placed alongside.
How large a ham and how many servings?
The recipe uses one smoked ham of 5–6 kg and is calculated for about 14 servings. It is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's «Stor kokebok» (1914), p. 254.

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