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Pike Soup (potage de brochet)

Erken's pike soup from 1914: a stock of 1 kg pike with head and bones cooked with roots, white wine and spices for 1 hour, strained and thickened with a butter roux, cream and lobster coloring into a pale-red soup, served with small fish balls and boiled celeriac.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 45 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Pike soup was one of Erken's freshwater fish dishes, in which the head, bones and skin were used for stock. Lobster coloring (lobster butter/carmine) was used to give the soup the coveted pale-red color.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Set up the stock

    Wash the fish well and place it in an enameled pot together with the cold water, 100 g butter, the cleaned roots, the onion, the white wine and the spices.

  2. 2

    Cook the stock

    Skim as soon as it comes to a boil, and let the stock simmer on under a lid for 1 hour.

  3. 3

    Strain

    Strain the stock through a fine strainer or cloth.

  4. 4

    Thicken the soup

    Melt 60 g butter, stir in the flour and thin with the stock and half of the cream. Stir in lobster coloring until the soup is pale red.

  5. 5

    Finish

    Just before serving, stir in the rest of the cream. Season with salt.

  6. 6

    Serve

    Serve the soup with small fish balls and boiled, finely cut celeriac.

Changes from the original

Measures converted to dl. The original's "10 g pepper" has been reduced to 1 tsp, which is more in keeping with modern taste. Lobster coloring can be replaced with lobster butter or a little tomato purée. An enameled pot is still recommended to avoid a metallic taste.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1914 (proofread, p. 45)~73% of the text changedremovedadded
1 kg gjedde (med kg. gjedde, hode, ben og skinn). skind 100 g gr. smør (til kraften). 1 stk gulrot. gulerot 1 stk løk. løk 1 knivsodd paprika. knivsod paprika 1 skive selleri. selleri 20 g salt. 1 ts pepper (originalen: gr. salt 10 g). gr. pepper 2 dl hvitvin. del. hvitvin 3 l vann (kaldt). l. vand 2 dl fløte. del. fløte 60 g gr. smør (til smørbollen). 60 g hvetemel. hummerfarge (eller hummersmør). små gr. hvetemel hummerfarve smaa fiskeboller (til servering). sellerirot (kokt og småskåret, til servering). Vask fisken sellerirot. Den godt og legg den vaskede fisk haves i en emaljert gryte sammen med det kalde vannet, kolde vand, de 100 g gr. smør, de rensede røttene, røtter, løken, hvitvinen vinen og krydderne.. Skum krydderierne. Skummes straks det koker opp, op, og la kraften surre smaasurrer videre under lokk i lok 1 time.. Sil kraften gjennom time. Siles gjennem fin sil sigt eller klede.. Smelt sileklæde. De 60 g smør, rør inn gr. smør smeltes, irøres melet og spe spædes med kraften og halvparten av fløten. Rør inn hummerfarge fløten; irøres hummerfarve, til suppen er blekrød.. Rett blekrød. Like før servering røres suppen skal serveres, haves resten av fløten inn. Smak til med salt.. Server i. Salt efter smak. — I suppen med små serveres smaa fiskeboller og kokt, småskåret sellerirot. kokt smaaskaaren selleri.

Note on Modernised

Mål omregnet til dl. Originalens «10 gr. pepper» er redusert til 1 ts, som er mer i tråd med moderne smak. Hummerfarge kan erstattes av hummersmør eller litt tomatpuré. Emaljert gryte anbefales fortsatt for å unngå metallsmak.

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Frequently asked questions

How long should the stock cook?
The fish with water, butter, roots, onion, white wine and spices simmers gently under a lid for about 1 hour after it has been skimmed at the boil. Then the stock is strained through a fine sieve or straining cloth. Total time for the soup is roughly 100 minutes.
What of the pike do I use?
1 kg pike, plus the head, bones and skin – they give the stock good flavor. Everything is washed well and placed in cold liquid in an enameled pot.
How is the soup thickened and colored?
60 g butter is melted, 60 g flour is stirred in, and it is thinned with the stock and half the cream. Lobster coloring is stirred in until the soup is pale red; the rest of the cream is added just before serving, and the soup is salted to taste.
What is served in the soup?
Small fish balls and celeriac. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), p. 45, and is intended for 6 servings.

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