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Goose Liver Pâté

Erken's goose liver pâté from 1914: goose liver larded with truffle is layered with a forcemeat of pork, pork fat, shallot, button mushroom, parsley, truffle and rum in a pork-lined pâté mold, baked about 2½ hours in a moderate oven, moistened with Madeira jus and cooled; keeps for a couple of months.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 268 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A luxury pâté from the chapter on poultry and game, made from goose liver, pork, pork fat and truffles. Such pâtés belonged to the finer bourgeois kitchen around 1900 and were baked slowly in a lidded mold in a water-bath-like setup, then stored cold for several weeks.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Season the liver

    Clean the goose livers and cut them into 3–4 pieces. Lard them with strips of truffle and sprinkle over salt, pepper, allspice and a very little ground bay leaf.

  2. 2

    Make the forcemeat

    Scrape or grind the pork and pork fat separately, and pound them until completely fine. Mix them well together.

  3. 3

    Sauté the aromatics

    Finely chop the shallot, parsley, button mushroom and the rest of the truffle, and let it sauté in the butter for 5 minutes. Cool completely.

  4. 4

    Finish the forcemeat

    Mix the cooled aromatics into the forcemeat along with salt and pepper to taste, and stir in the rum a teaspoon at a time. Pound everything well together.

  5. 5

    Assemble the mold

    Line a lidded pâté mold with thin strips of pork fat. Place a layer of forcemeat in the bottom, lay over half of the liver pieces and some truffle slices, then another layer of forcemeat, the rest of the liver, and finally cover everything with a layer of forcemeat. Lay thin slices of pork fat over the top.

  6. 6

    Bake slowly

    Set the mold in a larger roasting pan and bake at about 150 °C (300 °F) for around 2½ hours. When half the time has passed, pour the melted-off fat back into the pâté.

  7. 7

    Finish and cool

    Take out the pâté, remove the top layer of pork fat and pour over 1 tablespoon of Madeira jus. Put the pork fat back and let the pâté stand until it is completely cold.

  8. 8

    Storage

    Cover the pâté with paper, press the lid on and seal any openings with aluminum foil. In this way it can be stored cold for a couple of months.

Changes from the original

Unclear OCR quantities have been interpreted: 1½ kg of pork fat and ¼ kg of truffles. Grams and deciliters have been kept/converted to modern units, "flesk" (pork) is given as fatty pork fat/side pork, the oven temperature is estimated (150 °C (300 °F)), and "madeirasky" has been modernized to Madeira jus/stock with Madeira. Allspice and bay leaf are listed as ingredients even though they are only mentioned in the method in the original.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1949 (proofread, p. 299)~84% of the text changedremovedadded
2 stk gåselever (eller fet andelever). gåselevere 1 kg kg. svinekjøtt (magert, uten sener). 1,5 kg fett sideflesk (hvorav noe skjæres i tynne strimler/skiver til formen). 250 g trøffel (noe i strimler til spekking, noe i skiver, resten hakket). 1½ kg. flesk ½ kg. trøfler 30 g smør. gr. smør salt pepper 1 stk sjalottløk (finhakket). skalotteløk 6 stk sjampinjonger (finhakket). champignons 1 ts teskje persille (finhakket). 2 ss spiseskjeer rom. salt (etter smak). pepper (etter smak). allehånde (en klype, til leveren). støtt laurbærblad (en liten klype, til leveren). 1 ss madeirasjy (kraft med madeira, helles i den ferdige posteien). Rens gåseleverne og skjær dem i 3–4 deler. Spekk dem med strimler av trøffel og strø over salt, pepper, allehånde og ganske litt støtt laurbærblad.. Skrap eller kvern svinekjøtt og flesk hver for seg, og støt dem til de er helt fine. Bland dem godt sammen.. Finhakk sjalottløk, persille, sjampinjong og resten av trøffelen, og la det surre i smøret i 5 minutter. Avkjøl helt.. Bland de avkjølte aromatene inn i farsen sammen med salt og pepper etter smak, og rør inn rommen teskjevis. Støt alt godt sammen.. Kle en En posteiform med lokk beklædes med tynne fleskestrimler. Legg et fleskeskiver. Herpå legges lag farse i bunnen, legg over halvparten av leverstykkene farsen, herover legges det halve av gåseleverne og noen nogen trøffelskiver, så et nytt lag herpå igjen farse, resten av leveren, og dekk til slutt alt det hele dekkes med et lag farse. Legg tynne Tynne fleskeskiver over.. Sett legges over; formen settes i en større langpanne panne og stek ved ca. 150 °C settes i omtrent ikke for varm ovn ca. 2½ time. Når halve halvparten av tiden er gått, helles det avsmeltede fettet opp avsmeltet fett op i posteien.. Ta posteien. Tas ut posteien, fjern når den er ferdig, det øverste flesket og hell over flesk tas av. 1 spiseskje madeirasjy. Legg skje madeirashy helles i posteien; flesket tilbake legges atter over, og la posteien stå står til den er helt kald.. Dekk posteien ganske kold. Posteien kan opbevares et par måneder. Den dekkes med et papir, trykk lokket på trykkes på, og tett eventuelle åpninger med aluminiumsfolie. Slik kan man tetter den oppbevares kaldt i et par måneder. mulige åpning med tinnfolie.

Note on Modernised

Uklare OCR-mengder er tolket: 1½ kg flesk og ¼ kg trøfler. Gram og desiliter er beholdt/omregnet til moderne enheter, «flesk» er angitt som fett spekk/sideflesk, ovnstemperatur er anslått (150 °C), og «madeirasky» er modernisert til madeirasjy/kraft med madeira. Allehånde og laurbær er oppført som ingredienser selv om de bare nevnes i fremgangsmåten i originalen.

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Frequently asked questions

What ingredients do I need for this pâté?
2 goose livers, 1 kg of pork, ½ kg of pork fat (plus thin strips of pork fat to line the mold), truffles, 30 g of butter, 1 shallot, 6 button mushrooms, 1 tsp of parsley, 2 tablespoons of rum, salt and pepper.
How is the liver itself handled?
The liver is cleaned and cut into 3–4 pieces, larded with truffle strips and seasoned with salt, pepper, allspice and a little ground bay leaf before it is placed in the mold with the forcemeat.
How do I make the forcemeat?
Pork and pork fat are scraped and ground/pounded separately until completely fine. Onion, parsley, button mushrooms and the rest of the truffles are finely chopped and sautéed in the butter for 5 minutes; once cold they are mixed into the forcemeat with salt, pepper and rum, which is stirred in a teaspoon at a time. Everything is pounded well together.
How long does the recipe take?
It is estimated at around 10 hours in total including baking and cooling, and makes about 12 servings. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), p. 268.

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