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Pigeon Ragout (dueragu)

Erken's pigeon ragout from 1914: pigeons split lengthwise, salted, steamed tender for about 1 hour in a brown sauce of pork, onion, flour, butter and bouillon with bay leaf, clove, mace and lemon; the sauce is strained, thickened with potato starch if needed and seasoned with capers.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 300 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

From the chapter on poultry and game in "Stor kokebok" (1914). Pigeons were common festive food in older Norwegian households, and Erken here uses Maggi's bouillon cubes - a modern industrial product in her time.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Prepare the pigeons

    Split the cleaned pigeons lengthwise in two, sprinkle a little salt over them and let them stand like that for half an hour.

  2. 2

    Brown pork and onion

    Slice the onion and cut the pork into small cubes. Put it in a pot and sauté it over the heat for 10 minutes.

  3. 3

    Make the sauce

    Stir in flour and butter and let everything brown fairly lightly. Add the water with the dissolved bouillon cubes a little at a time, and put in bay leaf, peppercorns, clove, mace and lemon slices.

  4. 4

    Steam the pigeons tender

    Dry the pigeons off again, place them in the sauce and steam them tender over low heat for about 1 hour.

  5. 5

    Keep warm

    Take up the pigeons, place them on a warm platter and keep them warm until the sauce is finished.

  6. 6

    Finish the sauce

    Strain the sauce. If it is too thin, thicken it with a little potato starch and give it a boil. Stir in the capers, season with salt and pour the sauce over the pigeons.

Changes from the original

The ingredients are given in modern measures and spelling (tablespoon, a pinch of mace, bouillon cubes instead of Maggi bouillon cubes). Pork is interpreted as fresh, fatty pork belly/bacon. The method is divided into numbered steps in modern Norwegian.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1949 (proofread, p. 333)~72% of the text changedremovedadded
4 stk duer (rensede). salt 1 stk løk (i skiver). 150 g fet svineside (flesk) (i små terninger). gr. flesk 35 g hvetemel. gr. hvetemel 80 g smør. gr. smør 1 l vann. 4 stk buljongterninger (oppløst i vannet). l. vann 2 norexterninger 1 stk laurbærblad. laurbærblad 2 stk pepperkorn. pepperkorn 1 stk nellik. nellik 1 knivsodd muskatblomme. muskatblomme 3 skiver sitron. sitronskiver 1 spiseskje kapers. potetmel (til jevning om nødvendig). salt (etter smak). Del de rensede duene i to på langs, strø litt salt over og la dem stå slik i en halv time.. Skjær løken kapers potetesmel. Løken skjæres i skiver og fleskét skiver, flesket skjæres i små terninger. Legg det terninger, has i en gryte og rist det ryster over varmen i 10 minutter.. Rør inn minutter, mel og smør røres i, og la alt brunes ganske lett. Tilsett lett; vannet med de oppløste buljongterningene opløste terninger tilsettes litt etter efter litt, og legg i laurbærblad, laurbærblade, pepperkorn, nellik, muskatblomme muskat og sitronskiver.. Tørk duene av sitronskivene legges i. Duene avtørkes igjen, legg dem legges i sausen og damp dem dampes møre ved svak varme i ca. 1 time.. Ta duene opp, legg dem time; så tas de op, legges på et varmt fat fat, og hold dem holdes varme til sausen er ferdig.. Sil sausen. Er ferdig. Sausen siles; hvis den er for tynn, jevnes den med litt potetmel og potetesmel, gis et oppkok. Rør inn kapersen, smak til med salt opkok, kapersen røres i, saltes efter smak, og hell sausen helles over duene.

Note on Modernised

Ingrediensene er satt i moderne mål og skrivemåte (spiseskje, knivsodd muskatblomme, buljongterninger i stedet for maggibuljongterninger). Flesk er tolket som fersk, fet svineside/bacon. Fremgangsmåten er delt i nummererte trinn på moderne norsk.

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Frequently asked questions

How long must the pigeons cook?
The pigeons are steamed tender in the sauce over low heat for about 1 hour. Allow around 110 minutes in total, since the pigeons must first be salted and stand for half an hour, and onion and pork are cooked for 10 minutes before the liquid is added.
How are the pigeons prepared?
The cleaned pigeons are split lengthwise in two, sprinkled with a little salt and left like that for ½ hour. Then they are dried off again before being placed in the sauce.
What gives the sauce its flavor?
Onion and pork cubes are lightly browned with flour and butter, and the liquid is 1 liter of water with 4 bouillon cubes. The seasoning is bay leaf, 2 peppercorns, 1 clove, a pinch of mace, 3 lemon slices and a tablespoon of capers. Potato starch is used for thickening.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" from 1914, page 300. It is intended for 4 servings with 4 pigeons.

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