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Berlinerboller (Berlin jam doughnuts)

Erken's berlinerboller (Berlin jam doughnuts) from 1914: a yeast dough of 250 g flour, milk, egg, egg yolks, and butter, rolled out, cut with a glass, joined in pairs with raspberry jam, proofed, and fried in lard, served dusted with sugar.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 552 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

In Erken's day, berlinerboller were a yeast pastry fried in lard and filled with jam — the forerunner of today's Berlin doughnut with vanilla cream or jam. The recipe appears in the "Baking" chapter alongside scones and other tea breads.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Dissolve the yeast

    Stir the yeast into a batter with the teaspoon of sugar, and thin with the barely lukewarm milk.

  2. 2

    Make the dough

    Sift the flour and stir in the yeast mixture, the melted butter, the whisked egg and egg yolks, and the salt.

  3. 3

    Knead

    Work the dough well until it comes away from the bowl.

  4. 4

    Roll and cut out

    Roll out the dough, not too thin — about as thick as the back of a thick knife. Cut out round pieces with a glass.

  5. 5

    Fill

    Join the round pieces two by two with a little jam between them, and press the edges firmly together.

  6. 6

    Final proof

    Place the buns on a floured tray and let them rise for 20–30 minutes.

  7. 7

    Fry in lard

    Lift the buns off the tray one by one with a broad, floured knife and fry them in lard or oil at about 170 °C (340 °F), not too hot, until nicely browned and risen. Turn them along the way.

  8. 8

    Drain and serve

    Place the buns on paper so the fat drains off, and serve them dusted with sugar.

Changes from the original

Measures are converted to modern units (dl, tsp, g). The old "knivsod" is interpreted as a knife-point/pinch. Lard for deep-frying is given as neutral frying oil or lard, with a modern temperature reference (about 170 °C (340 °F)). The yeast amount is kept as fresh yeast.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1914 (proofread, p. 552) → Modernised~80% of the text changedremovedadded
250 gr. hvetemel 1 1/2 del. g hvetemel. 1,5 dl melk (lunken). 1 stk egg (visper). 2 eggeblommer stk eggeplommer. 100 gr. g smør (smeltet). 1 teske sukker ts sukker. 1 knivsod salt knivsodd salt. 45 gr. gjær syltetøi. Gjæren røres g fersk gjær. 1 dl syltetøy (helst bringebærsyltetøy). 1 l smult eller nøytral frityrolje (til koking). 2 ss sukker (til strøing). Rør gjæren til en velling med sukkeret teskjeen sukker, og tilsættes spe med den saavidt så vidt lunkne melk. Melet sigtes, irøres gjæren med melken, melken.. Sikt melet og rør inn gjærblandingen, det smeltede smør, smøret, de vispede egg sammenvispede eggene og saltet. Deigen slaaes, eggeplommene samt saltet.. Arbeid deigen godt til den slipper fatet, kjevles ut, bollen.. Kjevle ut deigen, ikke for tynd, tynt – omtrent så tykt som baken av ryggen på en tyk kniv; utstikkes tykk kniv. Stikk ut runde emner med ølglas. To et glass.. Legg to og to rundinger lægges runde emner sammen med litt syltetøi imellem, helst bringebærsyltetøi, trykkes sammen rundt kanterne syltetøy imellom, og lægges paa klem kantene godt sammen.. Legg bollene på et melet plate til hævning; hæves ca. 20 minutter—1/2 time. Tages 1 efter 1 brett og la dem heve 20–30 minutter.. Ta én og én bolle av platen brettet med en bred, melet kniv, koker kniv og kok dem i smultgryten ved smult eller olje på ca. 170 °C, ikke for sterk varme, varmt, til de er pent brune og hævet. Lægges op paa papir, forat smultet kan trække væk, hevet. Snu underveis.. Legg bollene på papir så fettet trekker av, og serveres overstrøet server dem overstrødd med sukker.

Note on Modernised

Mål er omregnet til moderne enheter (dl, ts, g). «Knivsod» er tolket som en knivsodd/klype. Smult til frityrsteking er angitt som nøytral frityrolje eller smult, med moderne temperaturangivelse (ca. 170 °C). Gjærmengden er beholdt som fersk gjær.

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Frequently asked questions

Which jam is recommended in the Berlin doughnuts?
Henriette Schønberg Erken recommends raspberry jam, but other jam can be used. Only a small dab is placed between two cut-out rounds of dough, which are pressed firmly together along the edge.
How long should the buns rise before deep-frying?
About 20 minutes to half an hour, on a floured surface. They are then lifted off one by one with a broad, floured knife and fried in the pot of lard.
How thick should the dough be rolled out, and what are the buns cut out with?
The dough is rolled out about as thick as the back of a thick knife — not too thin. The rounds are cut out with a beer glass.
What must I watch for when frying in lard?
The heat must not be too strong; the buns are fried until nicely browned. Heat that is too strong gives a dark crust before they are cooked through.

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