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Roast Capercaillie (cock and hen)

Erken's recipe for roast capercaillie (cock or hen) from Stor kokebok 1914: the bird is plucked, larded or covered with pork fat, browned in butter and roasted 2½–3 hours while basted with boiling water and finally with cream. The sauce is made from the pan juices with cream, water, salt, redcurrant jelly and cold butter. Serves 8.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 324 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Capercaillie cock and hen were among the most prestigious game dishes in Norwegian bourgeois cuisine. Erken counts the breast with the legs as the roasting cut, while the wings, neck, gizzard and back are boiled for game soup – a typically thrifty use of the whole bird. Redcurrant jelly in the sauce is a classic French-inspired touch for dark game fowl.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Clean the bird

    Pluck the capercaillie, singe it, clean, wash and dry it well. The wings, neck, gizzard and back can be boiled for game soup.

  2. 2

    Lard or cover

    Lard the bird with thin strips of pork fat, or cover it with slices of pork fat. Truss it.

  3. 3

    Brown

    Brown the bird in the butter in a roomy pot, breast side down first, until it is nicely browned all around.

  4. 4

    Roast and baste

    Baste with the boiling water little by little so the bird does not scorch. Now and then drop a teaspoon of butter into the pot. Roast a cock for 2½–3 hours, a hen 1½–2 hours.

  5. 5

    Baste with cream

    After about 1½ hours, when the bird is nearly done, begin basting it with cream.

  6. 6

    Sauce

    Take out the bird and keep it warm. Whisk 1 dl thick cream into the butter in the pot, add 1 dl boiling water and whisk well along the sides and bottom to gather all the bird juices. Salt to taste and reduce the sauce to the right thickness.

  7. 7

    Finish and serve

    Stir in 1 tsp redcurrant jelly and 1 tsp cold butter just before serving. Serve the bird at once, preferably with fried potatoes and boiled apples filled with redcurrant jelly.

Changes from the original

Measurements converted to modern units (deciliters/grams), "pork fat" specified as fresh, unsalted sliced pork fatback/bacon. The method is divided into numbered steps and the language of the steps modernized; the quantities are retained.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

1949 (proofread, p. 358) → 1914 (proofread, p. 324)~95% of the text changedremovedadded
Rugdene steker ca. ½—¾ time. Rugdene klø­ves i to langs efter brystbenet, anrettes på varmt fat og om­gis 1 tiur 200 gr. smør salt 100 gr. flesk ½ l. fløte ¼ l. vand. En tiur trænger 2½—3 timers stekning, en røi 1½—2 timers. Av tiuren stekes som regel kun brystet med små buketter av karse laarene, vinger, hals, kraas og rugdebrød. Skyen får et opkok, jevnes med koldt smør ryggen kokes til fuglesuppe (se side 45). 1 tiur er tilstrækkelig til 8 personer. Tiuren ribbes, svides, renses, vaskes og serveres særskilt. Til rugdebrødene hakkes innmaten fin, blandes tørres. Fuglen spækkes (se side 261) eller dækkes med det skrapede flesk. Løken fleskeskiver, sættes op og per­sillen trekker brunes i smørret; brystet lægges først ned. Naar fuglen er pent brun rundt omkring, spædes det varmede, men kokende vand litt efter litt paa; pas, at fuglen ikke helt smeltede smør, heri røres den hakkede inn­mat, rødvinen, eggeplommene, salt, pepper brændes, og muskat efter smak. Alt settes i vannbad stik av og damper under omrøren i 5 mi­nutten. Brødet skjæres i skiver, utstikkes til en teskefuld smør i halvmåneform og besmøres gryten. Naar fuglen næsten er stekt eller efter ca. 1½ times forløp, begynder man at dryppe med rugdeinnmaten. fløte. Steker i 5 minutter ca. 2½ time. Naar fuglen er stekt, tages den op og holdes varm, mens man tillager sausen. 1 del. tyk fløte vispes i varm ovn smørret, derefter tilsættes 1 del. kokende vand, idet man visper godt om kanterne og må serveres straks. bunden av gryten for at faa al fuglekraft godt med. Sausen saltes efter smak og koker ind, til den er passe jevn. Irøres 1 teske ribsgelé og 1 teske koldt smør umiddelbart før den skal serveres.

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Frequently asked questions

How long must the cock and hen be roasted?
A cock needs 2½–3 hours of roasting, a hen 1½–2 hours. The recipe has a total time of about 3.5 hours.
Which parts of the capercaillie are used for the roast?
As a rule only the breast with the legs is roasted. The wings, neck, gizzard and back are boiled for game soup.
How do you keep the meat from drying out?
The bird is larded or covered with slices of pork fat (100 g), browned in butter breast down, and basted with boiling water little by little. After about 1½ hours you begin basting with cream (½ l).
How many does one capercaillie feed?
One capercaillie cock is enough for 8 people, according to Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok from 1914 (p. 324).

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