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Larded veal cutlets (côtelettes de veau piquées)

A classic veal cutlet from Erken 1914: the cutlets are larded with strips of truffle and tongue, braised tender on a bed of cured pork, onion, carrot, and a bouquet garni with Madeira and stock, pressed, browned in the oven, and served in a ring with peas or salad and a Madeira sauce with small mushrooms.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 209 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

From the meat chapter of Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), among the finer veal cutlet dishes. Larding with strips of truffle and tongue and serving in a ring against a mound of potato is typical of the festive meals of the era.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Prepare the cutlets

    Trim the cutlets, cut the bones short, and pound the meat quite lightly.

  2. 2

    Lard the meat

    Lard each cutlet all the way through with strips of truffle and strips of boiled, cold tongue.

  3. 3

    Lay a bed in the pot

    Place slices of cured pork in a shallow pot or sauté pan. Put sliced onion and carrot on top, along with a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay leaf.

  4. 4

    Cook the cutlets tender

    Place the cutlets on the bed, salt them, and pour over 1½ dl Madeira and ½ liter stock. Put the lid on the pot and let it sit over low heat until the cutlets are tender, about 1–1½ hours.

  5. 5

    Cool and press

    Let the cutlets cool in the cooking liquid, take them out, and place them under light pressure.

  6. 6

    Reduce the liquid

    Strain the cooking liquid and reduce it until it is rich.

  7. 7

    Brown in the oven

    Return the cutlets to the pan, pour over a very little sauce, and place them in a hot oven until they take on a nice brown color.

  8. 8

    Plate

    Stand the cutlets up in a ring against a mound of potato on the platter. Place peas or green salad in the center.

  9. 9

    Finish the sauce

    Add 1½ dl Madeira and small mushrooms to the sauce, give it a brief boil, and serve the sauce separately.

Changes from the original

Measurements converted to modern units (deciliters, grams, liters). Cured pork is described as fatty, salted pork (may be replaced with bacon). Clarifications about temperature and oven browning have been added to make the steps understandable, without changing the method.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

1949 (proofread, p. 239) → Modernised~90% of the text changedremovedadded
gulerot samt 8 stk kalvekoteletter (med kort avhugget ben). 1 stk trøffel (skåret i strimler til spekking). 100 g kokt salttunge (kald, skåret i strimler). 150 g spekeflesk (i skiver, kan erstattes med bacon). 1 stk gulrot (i skiver). 2 stk løk (i skiver). 1 bunt persille (bundet i buket med timian og laurbærblad). 1 kvist timian. 1 stk laurbærblad (lite). 3 dl madeira (1½ dl til kokingen og 1½ dl i sausen). 0,5 l buljong. 1 ts salt (etter smak). 150 g små champignon (til sausen). 300 g erter eller grønn salat (til fyll i midten). Skjær kotelettene til, hugg benene korte og bank kjøttet ganske lett.. Spekk hver kotelett tvers igjennom med strimler av trøffel og strimler av kokt, kald tunge.. Legg skiver av spekeflesk i en bukett sammenbundet flat gryte eller sautépanne. Legg oppskåret løk og gulrot oppå, sammen med en buket av persille, timian og laurbærblad. På dette underlag legges kotelettene, saltes, påhelles ½ del. laurbærblad.. Legg kotelettene på underlaget, salt dem og hell over 1½ dl madeira og ½ liter buljong. Lokk legges Legg lokk på gryten, som settes gryten og la den stå over svak varme til kotelettene er møre. Avkjøles møre, ca. 1–1½ time.. La kotelettene avkjøles i skyen, optas ta dem opp og legges legg dem under lett press. Skyen siles press.. Sil skyen og kokes inn. Kotelettene legges kok den inn til den er kraftig.. Legg kotelettene tilbake i pannen igjen, påhelles pannen, hell over ganske litt lite saus og settes sett dem i ovnen for å få varm ovn til de får en fin brun farve. Ved anretningen reises farge.. Reis kotelettene i rundkrets rundkrans mot en potetbord på fatet. Legg erter eller grønn salat i midten.. Tilsett 1½ dl madeira og små champignon i skyen, gi den et knapt oppkok og server sausen for seg.

Note on Modernised

Mål omregnet til moderne enheter (desiliter, gram, liter). Spekeflesk beskrevet som fett, saltet svinekjøtt (kan erstattes av bacon). Presiseringer om temperatur og ovnsbruning er lagt til for å gjøre trinnene forståelige, uten å endre metoden.

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Frequently asked questions

How is the cutlet larded?
Each cutlet is larded all the way through with strips of truffle and boiled, cold tongue. The cutlets are first trimmed, the bones cut short, and the meat pounded quite lightly.
How long does the dish take, and how is it cooked?
Count on about 3 hours in all. The cutlets are placed on a bed of cured pork, sliced onion and carrot, and a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and a small bay leaf, are salted, and 1½ deciliters of Madeira and ½ liter of stock are poured over. With the lid on the pot, they simmer over low heat until tender.
What do you do after cooking?
The cutlets are cooled in the cooking liquid, taken out, and placed under light pressure. The liquid is strained and reduced into a sauce.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), p. 209. It is calculated for 8 cutlets, about 4 servings.

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