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Mock Turtle Soup

Mock turtle soup from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: stock simmered for 3 hours from calf's head or veal with bones, thickened with browned butter/flour and finely cut roots, ham and a bunch of greens, seasoned with sherry and lemon, served with shredded head meat and egg dumplings.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 57 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

"Mock turtle soup" was a French-inspired festive soup that in Norwegian bourgeois homes replaced the costly real turtle soup. Calf's head gave the gelatin-rich, slightly sticky stock that was meant to recall turtle.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Cut up meat and bones

    Cut the meat from the soaked calf's head (or use washed veal from the breast or shoulder). Chop the bones up small.

  2. 2

    Cook the stock

    Put the meat and bones in the cold water and set over the heat. Bring to a boil, salt and skim well. Let it simmer for 3 hours.

  3. 3

    Strain and defat

    Strain the stock. When it is cold, remove the fat.

  4. 4

    Sweat vegetables and ham

    Melt the butter and stir in the cleaned, very finely cut roots, the finely cut ham, the greens and the spices. Let everything sweat gently for 10 minutes. Stir in the flour.

  5. 5

    Add stock and cook

    Add the stock, set the pot over low heat and let the soup cook for 10 minutes.

  6. 6

    Season and strain

    Add the sherry, lemon juice and salt. Strain the soup and serve.

  7. 7

    Serving

    If a calf's head is used, cut the meat into neat, even strips and serve them in the soup together with egg dumplings.

Changes from the original

Measurements converted to modern units (dl, l, g), the spelling in the ingredient list modernized, the method split into numbered steps. The number of peppercorns specified as "some" since the original's "1 peppercorn" is probably a misprint.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1914 (proofread, p. 57) → Modernised~79% of the text changedremovedadded
1 a stk kalvehode eller (godt utvannet; kan erstattes med 2 kg. kalvekjøt kg kalvekjøtt (bryst eller bog)). 1 gulerot stk gulrot. 1 skive kaalrabi kålrabi. 1 liten stk sellerirot 1 løk (liten). 1 grøntkvast (selleriblade, persilleblade, purregrønt) stk løk. 1 bunt grønnkvast (selleriblad, persilleblad, purregrønt). 6 stk pepperkorn (originalen oppgir 1 pepperkorn). salt (etter smak). 90 gr. smør g smør. 90 gr. hvetemel g hvetemel. 125 gr. g mager skinke (finskåret). 1 del. sherry saft av ½ citron dl sherry. 0,5 stk sitron (saften). 4 l. vand. Det utvandede hode eller vaskede kalvekjøt (bryst l vann. Skjær kjøttet fra det utvannede kalvehodet (eller bruk vasket kalvekjøtt av bryst eller bog) fraskjæres kjøttet, og benene hakkes smaat op. — Kjøttet, benene bog). Hakk beina smått opp.. Legg kjøtt og bein i det kolde vand sættes kalde vannet og sett over ilden, gives varmen. Gi det et opkok, saltes oppkok, salt og skummes. Koker skum godt av. La det småkoke i 3 timer. Kraften siles, og naar timer.. Sil kraften. Når den er kold, tages kald, tas fettet væk. Smørret smeltes, irøres av.. Smelt smøret og rør inn de rensede, ganske smaaskaarne røtter, helt smått skårne røttene, den finskaarne skinke, grøntkvasten finskårne skinken, grønnkvasten og krydderierne. Alt dette smaastekes krydderne. La alt småsteke i 10 minutter; tilsæt minutter. Rør inn melet.. Tilsett kraften, sett gryten sættes over svak varme, varme og la suppen koker koke i 10 minutter. Sherry, citron minutter.. Tilsett sherry, sitronsaft og salt tilsættes, salt. Sil suppen siles og serveres. Benyttes kalvehodet, server.. Brukes kalvehode, skjæres kjøttet op i pene pene, jevne strimler og serveres i suppen tillikemed sammen med eggeboller.

Note on Modernised

Mål omregnet til moderne enheter (dl, l, g), rettskriving i ingredienslisten modernisert, fremgangsmåten delt i nummererte trinn. Antall pepperkorn presisert som «noen» siden originalens «1 pepperkorn» trolig er en trykkfeil.

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Frequently asked questions

What makes the soup "mock"?
It imitates real turtle soup, but is made from calf's head or veal (breast or shoulder) – not turtle. Veal and bone marrow give the same jelly-like, full-bodied stock.
How long does the soup take?
The stock of meat and chopped bones simmers for 3 hours, and then it is strained and cooled so the fat can be removed. Allow around 5 hours in all, including sweating the roots and ham (10 minutes) and further cooking.
What is the soup flavored with?
Carrot, rutabaga, celery root, onion and a bunch of greens of celery leaf, parsley and leek greens, plus peppercorns and salt. Finally 1 deciliter of sherry and the juice of half a lemon, and lean ham (125 g) gives extra body.
Why should the stock be cooled before it is used?
When the stock is cold, the fat solidifies on the surface and can easily be lifted off. Then the soup becomes clear and not greasy.

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