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Grilled Sweetbreads (ris de veau grillés)

Erken's grilled veal sweetbreads: soaked sweetbreads pre-cooked 20 minutes in acidulated salt water, cleaned, pressed flat, cut into pieces, breaded in egg and rusk crumbs and deep-fried in lard. Served with béarnaise or tartar sauce.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 219 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Breaded and deep-fried sweetbreads were a classic way of serving in French-inspired party food. The "warm folded napkin" was the era's way of arranging deep-fried food, so that the fat was absorbed.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Soak the sweetbreads

    Put the sweetbreads in cold water for a couple of hours, so the blood is drawn out. Change the water a few times.

  2. 2

    Pre-cook

    Let the sweetbreads simmer for 20 minutes in salted, acidulated water (water with vinegar or lemon juice).

  3. 3

    Cool and clean

    Put the sweetbreads at once in cold water so they become firm. Carefully remove all membranes.

  4. 4

    Press

    Wrap each sweetbread in a piece of thin cloth and tie it up, so the pieces get roughly the same shape. Place them under light pressure until cold.

  5. 5

    Bread

    Cut the sweetbreads into suitable pieces, turn them in beaten egg and then in rusk crumbs.

  6. 6

    Fry

    Deep-fry the pieces in lard (about 175 °C (345 °F)) until golden brown, or fry them in butter in a pan.

  7. 7

    Serve

    Arrange on a warm napkin on a platter and serve with béarnaise sauce or tartar sauce.

Changes from the original

Lard can be replaced with neutral frying oil or butter. Quantities of egg, rusk crumbs and fat are estimated. "Acidulated water" is specified as water with added vinegar or lemon juice. The steps are numbered.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1949 (proofread, p. 248)~95% of the text changedremovedadded
375 g kalvebrissel. 1 ss eddik eller sitronsaft (til kokevannet). 1 ts salt (til kokevannet). 2 stk Kalvebrissel egg (sammenvispet til panering). 100 g kavringsmuler (finmalt). 300 g smult (eller nøytral frityrolje; alternativt smør til steking). Legg brisselen i kaldt vann i et par timer, slik at blodet trekker ut. Skift vannet noen ganger.. La brisselen småkoke i 20 minutter i saltet, syrlig vann (vann kavring smult. Brissel med eddik eller sitronsaft).. Legg brisselen straks i kaldt vann så den blir fast. Fjern alle hinner forsiktig.. Legg hver brissel inn spinat. Brissel spinат, stuet. Brisselen utvannes, blancheres, kokes i et stykke tynt klede 1 del. kjøttkraft og bind det fast, slik at stykkene får omtrent samme fasong. Legg dem under lett press til de er kalde.. Skjær brisselen i passende stykker, vend dem i sammenvispet egg 50 gr. smør. Brisselen skjæres op og deretter i kavringsmuler.. Frityrkok stykkene i smult (ca. 175 °C) holdes varm, kraften kokes inn med 1 del. kremfløte til de den er gyllenbrune, jevn. Den stuede spinat eller stek dem i smør i panne.. Anrett på en varm serviett syre legges op på fat et lite avlangt, litt dypt fat, og server med bearnaisesaus eller tartarsaus. brisselstykkene legges op på. Sausen helles over.

Note on Modernised

Smult kan erstattes med nøytral frityrolje eller smør. Mengder på egg, kavring og fett er anslått. «Syrlig vand» er presisert som vann tilsatt eddik eller sitronsaft. Trinnene er nummerert.

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Frequently asked questions

Why are the sweetbreads put in cold water right after cooking?
So that they become firm. After 20 minutes of simmering in salted, acidulated water, the sweetbreads are placed at once in cold water, and then all membranes are carefully removed.
Why are the sweetbreads wrapped in a piece of cloth?
It is done if you want the pieces to get roughly the same shape. The sweetbreads are then placed under light pressure before being cut up.
How do you bread and fry the sweetbreads?
The pieces are turned in egg and rusk crumbs and cooked in lard or fried in butter. The recipe uses 375 g veal sweetbreads for 4 servings.
What is it served with?
The sweetbreads are arranged on a warm, folded napkin and served with béarnaise or tartar sauce. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), p. 219.

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