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Sautéed Veal Kidneys

Erken's sautéed veal kidneys: kidneys soaked in lukewarm water, sliced, seasoned and quickly sautéed in butter, sauced with veal roast gravy and arranged around fried tomatoes with meat glaze flavored with lemon juice, butter and parsley.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 225 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

From the chapter on veal and offal. Erken emphasizes that kidneys must always be sautéed or cooked quickly, or they become tough, and that they must be soaked a couple of hours in lukewarm water to avoid a harsh flavor. The kidneys must never boil in the sauce.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Soak the kidneys

    Split the kidneys lengthwise without cutting them completely apart, and soak them a couple of hours in lukewarm water, otherwise they take on a harsh flavor.

  2. 2

    Slice and season

    Take the kidneys out of the water, dry them, slice them, and season with salt and pepper.

  3. 3

    Sauté the kidneys

    Sauté the slices quickly in butter, and drizzle a little melted butter over them often. The kidneys must not cook long, or they will become tough.

  4. 4

    Add the sauce

    Just before serving, pour 1 dl of good veal roast gravy over the kidneys. Never let them boil in the sauce.

  5. 5

    Arrange

    Place the fried tomatoes in the center of the platter and the kidneys around them or as a strip on each side.

  6. 6

    Meat glaze over

    Mix the meat glaze with lemon juice, 25 g butter and finely chopped parsley, and pour it over the kidneys. Serve immediately.

Changes from the original

Amounts are estimated and given in modern measurements (dl, grams, tsp/tbsp). "Kjøtglassur" is modernized to meat glaze (strongly reduced stock). Soaking the kidneys, described in the introductory text, is included as a separate step.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1949 (proofread, p. 254)~87% of the text changedremovedadded
4 stk kalvenyrer (utvannet). 50 g smør (til risting og til å dryppe over). 1 ts (Rognons de veau grillés.) Kalvenyre salt (etter smak). 0,5 ts pepper (etter smak). 1 dl kalvesteksaus (god, brun). 4 stk tomater (stekte, til midten av fatet). 1 dl kjøttglace (sterkt innkokt kjøttkraft). 0,5 ts sitronsaft. 25 g smør (til glacen). 1 ss finhakket persille. Flekk nyrene på langs uten å dele dem helt, og legg dem et par timer i lunkent vann, ellers får de en stram smak.. Ta nyrene ut av vannet, tørk dem, skjær dem tomater. Nyrene utvannes, ta ikke all talgen fra, skjæres i skiver og krydre med salt skiver, krydres og pepper.. Rist skivene raskt ristes hurtig i smør, og drypp idet man ofte drypper over litt smeltet smør over. Nyrene må ikke få steke lenge, ellers blir de harde.. Rett smør; like før anretningen helles tilsettes 1 dl del. god kalvesteksaus over nyrene. La dem aldri koke i sausen.. Legg stekte tomater midt kalvesteksaus. Midt på fatet legges stekte tomater, og nyrene rundt omkring eller som en stripe på hver side.. Bland kjøttglacen med side legges nyrene. Overhelles 1 del. kjøttglasur, tilsatt 1/2 teskje sitronsaft, 25 g gr. smør og en spiseskjefull finhakket persille, og persille eller legg nyrene i midten, kok smøret et øieblikk med 1/2 del. madeira, hell den over nyrene. Server straks. dette over. Omkring legges kokt ris tilsatt tomatpuré efter smak.

Note on Modernised

Mengder er anslått og angitt i moderne mål (dl, gram, ts/ss). «Kjøtglassur» er modernisert til kjøttglace (sterkt innkokt kraft). Utvanning av nyrene, som er beskrevet i innledningsteksten, er tatt inn som eget trinn.

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Frequently asked questions

Why should the kidneys be soaked first?
Soaking draws out blood and the sharp urinous flavor, so the kidneys become milder. That is why the total time is around 150 minutes — most of it goes to soaking, while the sautéing in butter takes little time.
How are the kidneys prepared?
They are sliced, seasoned and sautéed in butter. Along the way you often drizzle a little melted butter over them, and just before serving 1 deciliter of good veal roast gravy is added.
What is served alongside, and what does the sauce over it consist of?
Fried tomatoes are placed in the center of the platter, with the kidneys around them or as a strip on each side. Over this is poured 1 deciliter of meat glaze with ½ teaspoon lemon juice, 25 g butter and a tablespoon of finely chopped parsley added.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), page 225. It is meant for 4 servings.

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