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Partridge (perdrix et perdreaux)

Partridge from Erken's Stor kokebok 1914: cleaned birds (frozen/older ones placed in lukewarm milk) salted, covered with slices of pork, browned in butter and braised covered about 1 hour in bouillon and cream; the sauce reduced, optionally with caramel color and mushrooms. Served split lengthwise with salad, cress, and Parisienne potatoes.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 322 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

From the chapter "Poultry and game" in Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914). Erken first gives the marks of a young bird (yellow legs) and then explains braising under a lid with cream and bouillon – a typical Norwegian way of treating lean small game birds. The milk soaking is used only for frozen or older birds.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Choose the birds

    Young partridges can be recognized by their yellow legs; older birds have reddish legs. If the birds are frozen, thaw them slowly in a warm kitchen.

  2. 2

    Cleaning

    Clean the birds, but do not chop off the head.

  3. 3

    Milk soaking

    Place frozen or older birds in lukewarm milk for a couple of hours. Young, unfrozen birds are not placed in milk.

  4. 4

    Preparation

    Dry the birds, rub them with salt, lay thin slices of pork over the breast, and tie in place with string.

  5. 5

    Browning

    Lightly brown the butter in a pot and brown the partridges in it.

  6. 6

    Braising

    Pour over the bouillon and cream, put on the lid, and let the birds braise slowly for about 1 hour. Baste often with the pan juices.

  7. 7

    Sauce

    Take up the birds and reduce the sauce over high heat. Add a few drops of caramel color if it is too pale, and optionally mushrooms sautéed in butter.

  8. 8

    Plating

    Split the birds lengthwise through the breast and put the halves back together. Serve with salad, cress, and Parisienne potatoes.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been converted to modern units (del. = deciliters). "Pork" is specified as fresh, fatty pork in thin slices, "color" as caramel color. Mushrooms and milk soaking are listed as optional, as the original assumes.

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Clean, minimally processed groceries matched to the ingredients — approximate prices.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1949 (proofread, p. 356)~84% of the text changedremovedadded
(Perdrix.) 3 stk rapphøns (rensede, hodet beholdes på). 100 g ioo gr. ferskt flesk (tynne skiver). 100 g smør. ioo gr. smør 4 dl fløte. del. fløte 3 dl buljong. 1 ts salt (etter smak). 5 dl lunken melk (til legging av frossen eller eldre fugl, kan sløyfes). sukkerkulør (noen dråper hvis sausen er for lys). 150 g sjampinjong (valgfritt, surret i smør). del. buljong salt. Unge rapphøns kjennes på gule ben; at benene er gule, hos eldre fugl har rødlige ben. benene en rødaktig farve. Er fuglene rapphønsene frosne, tines de langsomt opp op i et varmt kjøkken.. Rens fuglene, men hugg ikke av hodet.. Legg frossen eller eldre fugl kjøkken, renses, hodet avhugges ikke, legges i lunken melk et par timer. Unge, ikke frosne fugler legges ikke i melk.. Tørk fuglene, gni dem timer, tørres, gnides med salt, legg tynne fleskeskiver over brystet salt og bind fast belegges med tråd.. Brun smøret lett i en gryte og brun tynne fleskeskiver, der bindes om med tråd. Smøret brunes lett, rapphønsene i det.. Hell over buljong og fløte, legg brunes heri, på lokk helles buljong og la fuglene steke fløten, stekes sakte i under lokk ca. 1 time. Drypp ofte med skyen.. Ta fuglene opp time, dryppes ofte; tas op, og kok sausen koker inn over sterk varme. Tilsett noen få dråper sukkerkulør rask varme; tilsettes ganske lite kulør, om den er for lys, lys; champignons kan vannes i smør og eventuelt sjampinjong surret has i smør.. Del fuglene på langs gjennom brystet sausen. Er rapphønsene unge og legg halvdelene sammen igjen. Server med salat, karse ikke frosne, legges de ikke i melk. Kjøttet er særdeles fint og pariserpoteter. godt.

Note on Modernised

Mål er omregnet til moderne enheter (del. = desiliter). «Flesk» er angitt som ferskt, fet svineflesk i tynne skiver, «kulør» som sukkerkulør. Champignon og melkelegging er ført opp som valgfritt, slik originalen forutsetter.

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Frequently asked questions

How can I tell young and older partridges apart?
Young partridges have yellow legs, while older birds have legs with a reddish color.
Why are the partridges placed in lukewarm milk?
After cleaning, they are placed in lukewarm milk for a couple of hours (frozen birds are thawed first in a warm kitchen). Then they are dried, rubbed with salt, and tied up with thin slices of pork using string.
How long are they cooked, and how is the sauce made?
They are browned in lightly browned butter, given 3 dl bouillon and 4 dl cream, and braised slowly covered for about 1 hour with frequent basting. The birds are taken up and the sauce reduced over high heat; a little color can be added if it is too pale, and mushrooms turned in butter can be put in the sauce.
How are the partridges split and served?
They are split lengthwise through the breast, and the pieces are arranged. The recipe is calculated for 6 servings from 3 partridges, from Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), p. 322.

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