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Mandarinis (Glacé aux Mandarines)

Mandarinis (glacé aux mandarines, a mandarin water ice) from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): a boiling sugar syrup is mixed with the flesh of 4 mandarins, strained, combined with the juice of 6 mandarins, 2 oranges, and 1 lemon, and frozen. Often served in hollowed-out citrus shells.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 513 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

The recipe belongs to the section on fruit ices in Stor kokebok (1914). Erken notes that the fruit ice is filled into hollowed-out mandarins or oranges, which are carefully scraped out with a teaspoon. The notation "21°" refers to sugar measurement with a saccharometer (degrees Baumé) — a common tool in the fine confectionery of the time.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Boil the sugar syrup

    Boil the sugar and water together into a clear syrup, about 2.5 dl.

  2. 2

    Mix in the flesh

    Peel 4 mandarins and separate the flesh from the pith and seeds. Stir the flesh into the boiling sugar syrup.

  3. 3

    Cool and strain

    Let the mixture cool and press it through a fine sieve or a colander lined with cloth.

  4. 4

    Add the juice

    Mix in the juice of the remaining 6 mandarins, 2 oranges, and 1 lemon. Taste: the mixture should be clearly sweet, since sweetness is dulled by freezing.

  5. 5

    Freeze

    Freeze the mixture in an ice cream maker, or in a bowl in the freezer — stir vigorously every half hour for 3–4 hours until it is smooth and firm.

  6. 6

    Serve

    Fill the ice into hollowed-out mandarin or orange shells and serve at once.

Changes from the original

Amounts have been converted to modern measures (dl/pcs). The sugar syrup is specified as sugar boiled with water, since Erken assumes the reader knows "sugar syrup." The Baumé degree has been replaced with practical guidance on sweetness. Freezing is described both for an ice cream maker and for a freezer with stirring.

Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

Modernised → 1949 (proofread, p. 591)~95% of the text changedremovedadded
10 stk mandariner (saft av 6, fruktkjøtt Saft av 4). 2,5 dl sukkerlake (kokende; ca. 150 g sukker kokt med 2 dl vann). 2 stk appelsiner (saften). 1 stk sitron (saften). Kok sukker og vann sammen til en klar lake, ca. 2,5 dl.. Skrell 4 10 mandariner og del fruktkjøttet fra hvitt og kjerner. Rør fruktkjøttet inn i den ¾ l. kokende sukkerlaken.. La blandingen bli kald og press den gjennom en fin sil eller et dørslag med klede.. Bland inn saften av de øvrige 6 mandarinene, sukkerlake 2 appelsiner og 1 sitron. Smak til: blandingen skal være tydelig søt, siden sødmen dempes ved frysing.. Frys massen i iskremmaskin, eller i bolle i fryseren – rør kraftig hver halvtime i 3–4 timer til den er jevn og fast.. Fyll isen i uthulede mandarin- eller appelsinskall og server straks. Tillages som banan-is.

Note on Modernised

Mengder er omregnet til moderne mål (dl/stk.). Sukkerlaken er spesifisert som sukker kokt med vann, siden Erken forutsetter at leseren kjenner «sukkerlake». Baumé-graden er erstattet med praktisk veiledning om sødme. Frysing beskrives både for iskremmaskin og for fryser med omrøring.

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Frequently asked questions

How many mandarins do I need?
10 mandarins in all: the flesh of 4 is boiled with the sugar syrup, and the juice of the other 6 is added afterward. Plus 2 oranges and 1 lemon.
What does "should hold 21°" in the recipe mean?
It refers to the sugar content measured with a saccharometer (degrees Baumé), that is, that the mixture should have the right sweetness and strength before it is frozen. If it is too sweet the ice turns soft; too little sweet gives hard ice. Adjust with a little water or sugar syrup.
Why should the mixture be rubbed through a fine sieve?
To strain out the membranes, seeds, and fibers from the flesh, so that the ice becomes smooth and even. The mixture is cooled first after boiling with the sugar syrup.
How long does it take?
Count on around 5 hours in all, most of it cooling and freezing. The recipe makes 6 servings and is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok (1914), p. 513.

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