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Macaroni Soup (potage à l'italienne)

Erken's macaroni soup from 1914: macaroni is boiled tender in meat stock, the soup is thickened with egg yolks, whipped cream, and grated Parmesan, and heated to the boiling point without boiling.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 53 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

From the soup chapter of Henriette Schønberg Erken's «Stor kokebok» (1914). An Italian-inspired meat-stock soup thickened with egg yolks, cream, and Parmesan—typical of the bourgeois dinner table of the era.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Boil the macaroni

    Boil the macaroni tender in 1 liter of the boiling stock, about 30 minutes. Remove it and cut it into small pieces.

  2. 2

    Combine the soup

    Return the macaroni to the stock, add the second liter of stock, and bring to a boil.

  3. 3

    Thickening

    Whisk the egg yolks for about 15 minutes. Add the whipped cream, the grated cheese, and salt and pepper.

  4. 4

    Combine and heat

    Whisk the boiling soup into the egg mixture, pour everything back into the pot, and heat to the boiling point—but the soup must not boil.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been converted to modern units (deciliters/grams), and the method has been divided into steps. The warning against boiling the soup after thickening has been kept as its own step.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1914 (proofread, p. 53)~78% of the text changedremovedadded
2 l kjøttkraft. l. kjøtkraft 80 g makaroni. gr. makaroni 2 stk eggeplommer. eggeblommer 40 g revet parmesan. 1 dl fløte (piskes). gr. reven parmesanost pepper (etter smak). salt (etter smak). Kok makaronien 1 del. fløte. Makaronien kokes mør i 1 liter l. av den kokende kraften, kraft; koker omtrent 30 minutter. Ta den ut og skjær den ½ time, skjæres op i små stykker.. Legg makaronien smaa stykker. Makaronien haves tilbake i kraften, tilsett den andre literen anden liter kraft og gi det tilsættes, gives et oppkok.. Visp eggeplommene i ca. 15 minutter. Tilsett opkok. Eggeblommerne vispes ¼ time, tilsættes den piskede fløten, vispede fløte, den revne osten samt salt ost og pepper.. Visp krydderierne, den kokende suppen inn i eggeblandingen, hell alt suppe vispes heri, haves tilbake i gryten og varm opp gryten; bringes til kokepunktet – kokepunktet, men suppen må maa ikke koke.

Note on Modernised

Mål er omregnet til moderne norske enheter (desiliter/gram), og fremgangsmåten er delt i trinn. Advarselen mot å koke suppen etter legeringen er beholdt som eget trinn.

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Frequently asked questions

How long should the macaroni boil?
The macaroni is boiled tender in 1 liter of the boiling stock for about half an hour, then cut into small pieces.
Why must the soup not boil after the egg yolks are added?
Because egg yolks and cream separate and turn grainy when boiled. The boiling soup is whisked into the egg, cream, and cheese mixture, poured back into the pot, and brought only to the boiling point.
What do I need for 6 servings?
2 liters of meat stock, 80 g macaroni, 2 egg yolks, 40 g grated Parmesan, 1 dl cream, plus salt and pepper. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's «Stor kokebok» (1914), p. 53.

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