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Lobster cutlets II (cotelettes de homard à la russe)

A cold party dish from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): lobster meat and caviar mixed with lobster forcemeat and white sauce, molded in small cutlet molds, coated with a reduced brown aspic sauce with lobster butter, garnished with truffle, glazed with fish aspic, and served with Russian salad.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 147 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A cold party dish in French-Russian style from the fish chapter of "Stor kokebok" (1914). Lobster meat and caviar are bound with a white sauce, molded in small cutlet molds, glazed with fish aspic, and garnished with truffle—typical of the cold preparations of the era.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Brown base sauce

    Slowly brown the butter and flour together and thin with brown bouillon and fish bouillon. Let the sauce steep gently for about 2 hours.

  2. 2

    Reduce with tomato

    Add the cut-up tomatoes and reduce the sauce by half. Strain the sauce.

  3. 3

    Aspic sauce

    Put the sauce back over the heat with truffle juice and fish aspic, and reduce it until it sets when cooled. Season carefully with spices and a little sherry. Pour it out and stir until cold.

  4. 4

    Cutlet mixture

    Mix 200 g lobster meat and the caviar. Pound 100 g lobster meat together with 2 tbsp white sauce, stir in 2 tbsp half-whipped cream and a pinch of cayenne, and blend this into the lobster and caviar mixture together with the lobster forcemeat.

  5. 5

    Mold in the forms

    Brush small cutlet molds with butter and fill them with the mixture. Set cold until the mixture is firm, and turn the cutlets out of the molds.

  6. 6

    Coat and garnish

    Stir the lobster butter into the barely melted aspic sauce and coat the cutlets with it. Place a cut-out truffle slice on each cutlet.

  7. 7

    Glazing

    Glaze the cutlets with cold, liquid fish aspic and set them cold until they are to be plated.

  8. 8

    Plating

    Arrange the cutlets in a ring on a somewhat deep platter and fill the center with chopped white aspic. Serve Russian salad on the side.

Changes from the original

Measurements are converted to modern units (dl, grams), "hummerfarce" is kept as the term lobster forcemeat, and the method has been divided into numbered steps. Rusk/aspic quantities are kept as in the original; "knivsod" is translated as a pinch.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
Modernised → 1914 (proofread, p. 147)~81% of the text changedremovedadded
200 g hummerkjøtt (til kotelettmassen). 100 g hummerkjøtt (støtes med hvit saus til bindemasse). gr. hummerkjøt 150 g kaviar. gr. kaviar 200 g hummerfarse. gr. hummerfarce 2 stk trøfler (til pynt, skjæres i skiver). fiskegelé 1 ss trøffelsaft. spiseske hummersmør 3/4 l. brun buljong sherry 1/4 l. fiskebuljong 1 ss hummersmør. spiseske trøffelsaft 1 3/4 del. fiskegelé 1/4 kg. tomater 60 g gr. smør (til sausen). 60 g hvetemel. 7,5 dl brun buljong. 2,5 dl fiskebuljong. 250 g tomater (oppskårne). 1,75 dl fiskegelé (til sausen). fiskegelé (kald, flytende, til glasering). 2 ss hvit saus (til bindemassen). 2 ss fløte (halvvispet). 1 knivsspiss cayennepepper. sherry (litt, til sausen). salt og pepper (etter smak). hakket hvit gelé (til pynt i midten). russisk salat (til servering). Brun smør gr. hvetemel Smør og mel brunes langsomt sammen og spe spædes med brun den brune buljong og fiskebuljong. La sausen trekke svakt Sausen smaatrækker i et hjørne paa komfyren i ca. 2 timer.. Tilsett timer, tilsættes de oppskårne tomatene og kok opskaarne tomater; sausen inn koker ind til det halve. Sil sausen.. Sett sausen halve, siles. Sættes over varmen igjen med trøffelsaft ilden igjen, og fiskegelé, trøffelsaft og kok inn fiskegelé haves i, koker igjen ind, til den stivner ved avkjøling. Smak forsiktig til avkjøling stivner; nu tilsættes med krydder forsigtighet krydderier og litt sherry. Hell opp Heldes op og rør røres i, til den er kald.. Bland 200 g hummerkjøtt kold. Hummerkjøttet og kaviaren. Støt kaviaren blandes, irøres en blanding av 100 g hummerkjøtt gr. hummerkjøt, støtt sammen med 2 ss spiseskeer hvit saus, rør inn saus samt irørt 2 ss spiseskeer halvvispet fløte og en knivsspiss cayenne, og bland dette inn i hummer- og kaviarblandingen sammen med hummerfarsen.. Pensle små kotelettformer knivsod cayenne. Smaa koteletformer pensles med smør smør, og fyll dem med heri fyldes blandingen. Sett kaldt til massen Saasnart de er stiv, og ta koteletten stivnet, tages koteletterne ut av formene.. Rør hummersmøret inn i formerne; de dækkes med den så vidt tillagede, saavidt smeltede gelésausen og dekk koteletten med den. Legg en utskåret trøffelskive på saus, som er irørt hummersmørret. Paa hver kotelett.. Glaser koteletten kotelet lægges en utskaaret skive trøffel. Koteletterne glasseres med kald, kold, flytende fiskegelé og sett dem kaldt sættes koldt, til de skal anrettes.. Legg koteletten anrettes. Koteletterne lægges i rundkrets på rundkreds paa et litt dypt fat og fyll fat; i midten med fyldes hakket hvit gelé. Server russisk Russisk salat serveres til.

Note on Modernised

Mål er omregnet til moderne enheter (dl, gram), «hummerfarce» er beholdt som begrep, og fremgangsmåten er delt i nummererte trinn. Kavring/gelé-mengder er beholdt som i originalen; «knivsod» er oversatt til en knivsspiss.

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Frequently asked questions

How long does the sauce take?
The sauce requires time: a brown roux of 60 g butter and 60 g flour is thinned with 3/4 l brown bouillon and 1/4 l fish bouillon and steeps gently for about 2 hours. Then it is reduced by half with tomatoes, strained, and cooked further with truffle juice and fish aspic until it sets when cooled. Figure on about 5 hours total including cooling.
What are the "cutlets" themselves made of?
They are made of 200 g lobster meat mixed with 150 g caviar, together with 200 g lobster forcemeat, 2 truffles, and a tablespoon of lobster butter. The dish is coated/glazed with fish aspic.
Why is it called "à la russe"?
The name refers to the caviar, which is a central ingredient along with the lobster meat. The recipe is taken from Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" from 1914, page 147, and serves 6.
When are the sherry and spices added?
At the very end, after the sauce has been reduced: spices and a little sherry are added "with caution," and the sauce is stirred until cold, so the aroma does not boil away.

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