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Saddle of Mutton à la Victoria

Saddle of mutton à la Victoria from Erken's Stor kokebok (1914): the saddle is tied up, braised tender about 2–2½ hours in the oven with onion, carrot, parsley root, and meat stock, then covered with a thick milk-and-cream sauce with grated cheese, gratinated with rusk crumbs and butter, and served with mushrooms and reduced pan juices alongside.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 232 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

A festive gratinated saddle of mutton from the meat chapter of Henriette Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok (1914). The saddle is braised tender in the oven, covered with a thick cheese sauce, and gratinated light brown – a typical "à la" dish of the era's bourgeois party fare.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Ready the saddle

    Remove the kidneys and fold the flank underneath. Tie the saddle together with kitchen string and rub it with salt and a little butter.

  2. 2

    Brown and add liquid

    Place the saddle in a hot pot with a little fat, together with cleaned, sliced onions, carrots, and parsley roots. Pour over 2.5 dl of boiling meat stock (or water with 1 bouillon cube).

  3. 3

    Braise in the oven

    Set the covered pot in a hot oven (about 180 °C (355 °F)). When the pan juices begin to brown, add more stock, up to 1 liter in all. Braise the saddle tender for about 2–2½ hours, basting often with the pan juices.

  4. 4

    Make the sauce

    Cook butter and flour lightly together without browning them. Thin with boiling milk and cream, add the sprig of parsley, and reduce to a thick sauce. Strain the sauce, stir in the grated cheese, and season with salt.

  5. 5

    Gratinate

    Place the saddle on a platter and let it cool a little. Pour the sauce over it, sprinkle with ground rusk crumbs, drizzle with melted butter, and set the platter in a hot oven (about 225 °C (435 °F)) until the surface is light brown.

  6. 6

    Serve

    Serve on an oblong platter surrounded by mushrooms. Strain the pan juices, reduce them, and serve them separately.

Changes from the original

Measurements have been converted to modern units (dl, grams, graded oven temperature). The "Maggi bouillon cube" has been kept as a bouillon cube. Unclear OCR for the cream amount has been interpreted as 3 dl. Oven temperatures have been added as guidance, since the original only says "hot oven" and "very hot oven."

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1914 (proofread, p. 232) → Modernised~82% of the text changedremovedadded
1 faaresadel salt stk fåresadel (nyrestykket fra lårbenet til tre ribben over nyrene, nyrene tatt ut). salt. smør (til innsetting og til gryten). 2 stk løk (i skiver). 2 gulerøtter stk gulrøtter (i skiver). 2 stk persillerøtter kjøtkraft. Saus: (i skiver). 1 l kjøttkraft (eller vann med 1 buljongterning; brukes gradvis). 70 gr. g smør (til sausen). 30 gr. g hvetemel (til sausen). 3 del. fløte dl fløte. 4 del. melk persille dl melk. 1 kvast persille. 100 gr. reven ost, parmesan- g revet ost (parmesan eller schweizerost. Hertil benyttes bedst nyrestykket fra laarbenet til tre ribben over nyrerne; nyrerne tages ut, sveitserost). støtt kavring (til gratinering). smeltet smør (til gratinering). champignon (til pynt rundt fatet). Ta ut nyrene og legg slagsiden lægges indunder. Sadelen ombindes inn under. Bind sadelen sammen med hyssing, gnides hyssing og gni den inn med salt og litt smør, lægges smør.. Legg sadelen i en varm gryte med litt fett og de sammen med rensede løk løk, gulrøtter og røtter, skaaret persillerøtter i skiver, overheldes 1/4 l. skiver. Hell over 2,5 dl kokende kjøtkraft eller 1/4 l. vand og kjøttkraft (eller vann med 1 maggibuljongterning. Gryten sættes tildækket buljongterning).. Sett gryten tildekket i varm ovn; naar ovn (ca. 180 °C). Når skyen begynder at begynner å bli brun, tilsættes mere spes det med mer kraft, i alt indtil inntil 1 liter. Faaresadelen dampes mør, idet man Damp sadelen mør i ca. 2–2½ time, og drypp ofte drypper over av skyen; dampes omkring 2—2 1/2 time. Lægges op paa et fat, avkjøles og overheldes sausen, laget paa følgende maate: Smør med skyen.. Rist smør og mel ristes let lett sammen uten at brunes, spædes å brune det. Spe med den kokende melk og fløte, tilsættes legg i persillekvasten og kokes ind kok inn til en tyk saus, siles, irøres den revne tykk saus. Sil sausen, rør inn revet ost og salt efter smak, strøes smak til med salt.. Legg sadelen på et fat og la den avkjøles litt. Hell sausen over, strø med støtt kavring, dryppes drypp med smeltet smør og sættes sett fatet i het ovn, ovn (ca. 225 °C) til den faar en lysebrun farve. Serveres paa overflaten er lysebrun.. Server på et avlangt fat, omgit med champignons. Skyen siles, kokes ind fat omgitt av champignon. Sil skyen, kok den inn og serveres særskilt. server den for seg.

Note on Modernised

Mål er omregnet til moderne enheter (dl, gram, gradert ovnstemperatur). «Maggibuljongterning» er beholdt som buljongterning. Uklar OCR for fløtemengden er tolket som 3 dl. Ovnstemperaturer er lagt til som veiledning, siden originalen bare sier «varm ovn» og «het ovn».

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Frequently asked questions

Which cut do I use for saddle of mutton?
Use the loin section – from the thighbone up to three ribs above the loins. The kidneys are removed, and the flank is folded underneath. The saddle is tied up with kitchen string before roasting.
How is the saddle prepared?
It is rubbed with salt and a little butter and placed in a hot pot with a little fat together with cut-up onions, carrots, and parsley roots. Pour over 1/4 liter of boiling meat stock (or water with a bouillon cube) and braise it tender, covered, in a hot oven, basting often. When the pan juices begin to brown, add more stock – up to 1 liter in all.
What is the sauce made of?
A white sauce of 70 g butter, 30 g wheat flour, 3 dl cream, and 4 dl milk, seasoned with parsley and 100 g grated cheese – Parmesan or Swiss cheese.
How long does the dish take, and how many does it feed?
Allow about 3.5 hours in all, and the recipe is intended for 8 servings. It is taken from Henriette Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok (1914), p. 232.

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