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Steam-Roasted Poularde à l'aurore

Erken's 1914 party dish: a poularde (a fattened young hen) or capon rubbed with lemon, larded with truffle, covered with pork, browned in butter, and steam-roasted with root vegetables, ham, and stock, finished with Madeira. The sauce is strained off the vegetables with brown gravy. Served sliced with potato baskets filled with vegetables.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 280 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

The recipe appears in the chapter on hens, where Erken explains the difference between ordinary hens, capons, and poulardes. Poulardes are young, fattened hens that were considered especially fine table fare, and the dish is a party dish with Madeira, truffles, and brown gravy.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Prepare the bird

    Clean the poularde in the usual way. Rub the breast and legs with the cut lemon, and dip the breast and legs for a moment in boiling water.

  2. 2

    Lard and season

    Lard the bird with truffle strips and rub it inside and out with salt and pepper. Truss the poularde, lay the slice of pork over the breast, and tie it in place with kitchen string.

  3. 3

    Brown the bird

    Brown the butter in an iron pot, put in the poularde, and brown it nicely on all sides. Take it out.

  4. 4

    Vegetables and steaming

    Clean and finely chop the carrots, red onion, and celery. Put them in the pot together with the ham, set the bird on top with the breast up, and pour in 2.5 dl stock. Let it cook, covered, until the stock has cooked down.

  5. 5

    Roasting

    Pour in the rest of the stock, set the pot uncovered in a hot oven (about 200 °C (390 °F)), and roast the poularde until tender. Baste with the stock every 10 minutes. Pour over the Madeira 5 minutes before the bird is done.

  6. 6

    The sauce

    Take the poularde up onto a warm platter. Add the brown gravy to the vegetables in the pot, let it boil 10 minutes, and strain through a cloth wrung out in boiling water. Skim off all the fat, boil up the sauce, and season with salt and pepper.

  7. 7

    Serving

    Carve the poularde neatly and lay the pieces together so the bird looks whole. Arrange potato baskets filled with assorted vegetables around it. Serve the sauce separately.

Changes from the original

Measurements are converted to modern units (deciliters, grams, liters), "brown gravy" is given as brown stock/gravy, and pork as fresh, unsalted side pork. The roasting temperature is given in degrees, which the original does not specify. The truffle amount is given as optional.

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Modernised → 1914 (proofread, p. 280)~79% of the text changedremovedadded
1 stk poularde poulard eller kapun (ca. 2–3 kg, renset). 1 stk sitron (delt i to). citron 25 g gr. skinke (i terninger). 100 g sideflesk (i en tynn skive). gr. flesk 60 g smør. gr. smør 2 stk gulrøtter. gulerøtter 1 stk rødløk. rødløk 1 skive selleri (knollselleri). 30 g trøffel (skåret i strimler til spekking). 7,5 dl høne- trøfler 3/4 l. hønse- eller kalvekraft. kalvebuljong 1 dl madeira. del. madeira 3 dl del. brun sjy (brun kraft/demi-glace). sky salt (etter smak). pepper (etter smak). Rens poularden på pepper. Fuglen rengjøres som vanlig måte. Gni bryst og lår (se side 260), gnides med den oppskårne sitronen, overskaarne citron paa bryst og dypp ben, hvorefter bryst og lår ben dyppes et øyeblikk øieblik i kokende vann.. Spekk fuglen vand. Den spækkes med trøffelstrimler og gni den inn- gnides ind- og utvendig med salt pepper og pepper. Bind opp poularden, legg fleskeskiven over salt. Poularden opsættes, brystet og bind den belægges med fleskeskiven, som bindes fast med hyssing.. Brun smøret traad. Smørret brunes i en jerngryte, legg i poularden og brun den lægges i, brunes pent på paa alle sider. Ta den opp.. Rens sider og hakk gulrøtter, tages op. Gulerøtter, rødløk og selleri fint. Legg dem renses og hakkes fint, lægges i gryten sammen tillike med skinken, legg fuglen oppå lægges i med brystet opp op, og hell på 2,5 dl kraft. La det koke 2 1/2 del. buljong heldes paa. Koker under lokk lok, til kraften buljongen er kokt inn.. Hell i indkokt, resten av kraften, sett buljongen haves i; gryten sættes uten lokk lok i varm stekeovn (ca. 200 °C) ovn, og stek poularden mør. Drypp med kraften stekes mør, dryppes hvert 10. minutt. Hell 10de minut. Vinen heldes over madeiraen 5 minutter før fuglen er ferdig.. Ta opp poularden på et færdig. Poularden lægges op paa varmt fat. Tilsett Grønsakerne tilsættes den brune sjyen til grønnsakene sky, koker i gryten, la det koke 10 minutter og sil gjennom et klede vridd opp minutter, siles gjennem kjøtklæde, opvridd i kokende vann. Skum av alt fettet, kok opp vand. Alt fett skummes væk, sausen og smak til med salt og pepper.. Skjær poularden gives et opkok, krydres efter smak. Poularden skjæres pent opp og legg stykkene op, lægges sammen så fuglen ser hel ut. Legg potetkurver fylt som hel, omgives med poteteskurver, fyldt med forskjellige grønnsaker rundt. Server sausen for seg. grønsaker. Sausen serveres særskilt.

Note on Modernised

Mål er omgjort til moderne enheter (desiliter, gram, liter), «brun sky» er angitt som brun kraft/sjy, og flesk som fersk, usaltet sideflesk. Steketemperatur er angitt i grader, som originalen ikke oppgir. Trøfler er valgfritt angitt i mengde.

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Frequently asked questions

What does it mean that the poularde is "steam-roasted"?
The bird is first browned in butter in an iron pot, and then cooked on slowly in the pot with vegetables, broth, and Madeira, covered, so that it becomes tender in steam/stock rather than in dry oven heat. Figure on around 2.5 hours total.
Why is the bird rubbed with lemon and dipped in boiling water?
The lemon on the breast and legs makes the meat lighter and fresher in flavor, and a quick dip in boiling water firms up the skin so the bird holds its shape and takes on a nicer color during browning.
Can I use something other than poularde or capon?
The recipe calls for a poularde or capon, that is, a large, fat young bird. An ordinary large chicken can be used, but it is less fat and needs less time.
What does the sauce consist of?
The stock in the pot — hen or veal broth, 1 dl Madeira, and 3 dl brown gravy — together with the chopped vegetables (carrot, red onion, celery) and the ham, seasoned with salt and pepper. Truffles are used both for larding and flavor.

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