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Chaudfroid of Hazel Grouse (chaudfroid de gélinottes)

Erken's 1914 chaudfroid of hazel grouse: six birds seasoned with salt, pepper and juniper berries, covered with bacon and browned in butter for about 45 minutes. The breasts are carved out cold, coated with a gelatin-bound brown madeira sauce made from pan juices and cream, garnished with egg white and truffle, and glazed with clarified stock jelly. Arranged on a bread base with jelly triangles and lettuce leaves.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 326 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Chaudfroid was one of the great cold dishes of the festive meal in Erken's time: roasted poultry covered with a thick, gelatin-bound brown sauce and garnished with jelly figures, hard-boiled egg white and truffle. Hazel grouse (gélinotte) was fine game, and the dish was often arranged on a bread base to give height to the platter.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Prepare the birds

    Clean the hazel grouse and dry them well. Truss them into a neat shape, lay bacon slices over the breasts and season with salt, pepper and crushed juniper berries.

  2. 2

    Roast

    Brown the butter in a pot and roast the birds for about 45 minutes. Baste them now and then with stock.

  3. 3

    Carve out the meat

    Take the birds out when they are done and pull off the skin. When they are completely cold, carefully carve out the breasts in whole pieces. Strain and skim the pan juices.

  4. 4

    Make the chaudfroid sauce

    Brown the butter and flour, thin with the pan juices and the cream, and let the sauce simmer for 5 minutes. Add the madeira, salt and cayenne, bring to a boil and skim.

  5. 5

    Bind the sauce

    Rinse the gelatin sheets in cold water, dissolve them in 1 tablespoon hot water and stir them into the sauce. Pour the sauce into a bowl and stir until it is completely cold and thick enough to coat the spoon.

  6. 6

    Coat the breasts

    Arrange the bird breasts neatly, dip them in the sauce and cover them with the rest of the sauce. Garnish with hard-boiled egg white and truffle, and let it get completely cold.

  7. 7

    Clarify the jelly

    In an enameled pot, whisk the cold, completely fat-free stock cold together with the cold-rinsed, snipped gelatin sheets, the unbeaten egg whites, the well-washed and crushed eggshells and the lemon juice. Bring to a boil and clarify the jelly in the usual way, then strain it.

  8. 8

    Glaze and arrange

    Carefully drizzle the almost-cold jelly over the breasts in several layers. When the jelly has completely set, trim the breasts so that a small edge of jelly shows beyond the meat. Arrange them on or against a bread base and garnish with jelly triangles and pale lettuce leaves.

Changes from the original

Measures have been modernized (deciliter/liter, gram), gelatin sheets kept as sheets, «flesk» given as fresh side bacon in slices, and «kjøtsky» as pan juices/stock. The method has been split into numbered steps and the language of the steps modernized, while the transcription follows the original.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

From19141949Modernised
To19141949Modernised
1949 (proofread, p. 359) → Modernised~87% of the text changedremovedadded
Chaudfroid på jerper. (Chaudfroid de gelinottes.) 6 stk jerper (rengjort og tørket). 200 gr. flesk g sideflesk (i tynne skiver). 100 gr. g smør (til steking). 3 teskjeer ts salt. 0,25 ts pepper. 1 ts einebær (knuste). 1 l buljong (til drypping under steking). 60 g smør (til sausen). 60 g hvetemel (til sausen). 2,5 dl stekesjy av fuglene (silt og skummet). 1 dl fløte. 2 ss madeira. salt ½ teskje pepper ½ teskje knuste enebær (etter smak). cayennepepper (etter smak). 4 plater gelatin (til sausen). 1 l. buljong. Jerpene rengjøres, tørkes. Settes op, belegges stk hardkokt eggehvite (til pynt). trøffel (til pynt). 1 l mørk buljong (helt fettfri, til geléen). 10 plater gelatin (til geléen). 2 stk eggehviter med fleskeskiver, krydres. Smøret brunes, eggeskall (til klaring av geléen). 1 ts sitronsaft. lyse salatblad (til pynt). Rens jerpene og tørk dem godt. Bind dem opp i pen form, legg fleskeskiver over brystene og krydre med salt, pepper og knuste einebær.. Brun smøret i en gryte og stek fuglene stekes heri ca. ¾ time; dryppes i cirka 45 minutter. Drypp dem av og til med buljong. Når buljong.. Ta fuglene opp når de er ferdigstekt, tas de op, skinnet trekkes av. ferdigstekte og trekk av skinnet. Når fuglene de er kolde, helt kalde, skjæres kjøttet brystene forsiktig ut i hele stykker. Skyen siles Sil og skummes. Fuglebrystene dyppes i følgende saus: 60 gr. skum stekesjyen.. Brun smør 60 gr. hvetemel ¾ l. kjøttsky 1 del. fløte 2 spiseskjeer madeira salt cajenne 4 plater gelatin. Smør og mel brunes, spedes mel, spe med kjøttskyen stekesjyen og fløten, småkoker og la sausen småkoke i 5 minutter; tilsettes vin minutter. Tilsett madeira, salt og krydderi; koker op cayenne, kok opp og skummes. Gelatinen skylles skum.. Skyll gelatinplatene i koldt kaldt vann, opløses løs dem i 1 spiseskje varmt vann, røres vann og rør dem i sausen. Sausen helles op, røres Hell sausen i en bolle og rør til den blir ganske kold, er helt kald og så tykk at den dekker skjeen. Fuglebrystene legges skjeen.. Legg fuglebrystene pent op, dekkes opp, dypp dem i sausen og dekk dem med resten av sausen, og pyntes sausen. Pynt med hårdkokt hardkokt eggehvite og trøfler. Når trøffel, og la det bli helt kaldt.. Visp den kalde, helt fettfrie buljongen kaldt sammen med de kaldtskylte, oppklippede gelatinplatene, de uvispede eggehvitene, de renvaskede og knuste eggeskallene og sitronsaften i en emaljert gryte. Kok opp og klar geléen på vanlig måte, sil den.. Drypp den nesten kalde geléen forsiktig over brystene i flere lag. Når geléen er aldeles koldt, dryppes helt stivnet, skjæres brystene ut slik at en liten kant av gelé forsiktig over. synes utenfor kjøttet. Legg dem opp på eller mot en brødsokkel og pynt med geléтrekanter og lyse salatblad.

Note on Modernised

Mål er modernisert (desiliter/liter, gram), gelatinplater er beholdt som plater, «flesk» er oppgitt som fersk sideflesk i skiver, og «kjøtsky» som stekesjy/kraft. Framgangsmåten er delt i nummererte trinn og språket i trinnene er modernisert, mens transkripsjonen følger originalen.

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Frequently asked questions

How long are the hazel grouse roasted?
The hazel grouse are trussed, covered with bacon slices and seasoned, and roasted in browned butter for about ¾ hour. They are basted now and then with stock.
What is chaudfroid?
A cold preparation in which fully cooked meat – here hazel grouse breast – is dipped in a gelatin-rich, cooled sauce and then coated/garnished with jelly. The dish needs a long time to set, hence about 10 hours in total.
What spices are used for the hazel grouse?
Salt (3 teaspoons), ¼ teaspoon pepper and 1 teaspoon crushed juniper berries, in addition to bacon (200 g) and butter (100 g) for the roasting.
How is the jelly made?
1 liter dark stock is clarified with 2 egg whites and eggshells, and 1 teaspoon lemon juice and 10 sheets of gelatin are added.

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