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Small choux puffs filled with game purée

Filling for small choux puffs (vannbakkels): 125 g cooked game meat pounded with 3 tbsp cream and 60 g soft butter, sieved, seasoned with salt and pepper, and folded with 2 tbsp whipped cream. Piped into choux puffs as a soup garnish.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 73 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

The filling is a fine forcemeat of cooked game meat, made to use up leftover roast. The purée was pounded in a mortar and pressed through a hair sieve – today a food processor does the same job.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Finely divide the meat

    Scrape or finely chop the game meat and pound it fine in a mortar, or run it in a food processor.

  2. 2

    Add cream and butter

    Stir the butter soft and add it together with the 3 tablespoons of cream, a little at a time, until the mixture is smooth.

  3. 3

    Sieve the purée

    Press the mixture through a fine sieve.

  4. 4

    Season and fold in the cream

    Season with salt and pepper and carefully fold in the stiffly whipped cream.

  5. 5

    Fill the puffs

    Fill the purée into a piping bag and pipe it into the side of the baked choux puffs. Warm a few minutes in a hot oven before serving.

Changes from the original

The mortar and hair sieve have been replaced by a food processor and fine-mesh sieve. Tablespoons have been kept as modern tbsp. The number of choux puffs is estimated.

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Clean, minimally processed groceries matched to the ingredients — approximate prices.

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

1914 (proofread, p. 73) → Modernised~87% of the text changedremovedadded
Smaa vandbakkelser 20 stk små vannbakkels (se egen oppskrift). 125 gr. g kokt, koldt vildtkjøt kaldt viltkjøtt. 3 spiseskeer fløte salt pepper ss fløte. 60 gr. g smør (romtemperert). 2 spiseskeer stivvispet fløte. Kjøttet skrapes ss pisket kremfløte (stivpisket). salt. pepper. Skrap eller finhakk viltkjøttet og støtes støt det fint i morter, eller kjør det i foodprosessor.. Rør smøret mykt og tilsett det sammen med de 3 skeer fløte og smørret, som er rørt bløtt. Alt tilsættes spiseskjeene fløte, litt efter litt. Presses gjennem etter litt, til blandingen er glatt.. Press massen gjennom en fin haarsigt sikt.. Smak til med salt og tilsættes krydderier pepper og vend forsiktig inn den stivvispede fløte. Fyldes stivpiskede fløten.. Fyll puréen i vandbakkelserne. sprøytepose og sprøyt den inn i siden av de stekte vannbakkelsene. Varm noen minutter i varm ovn før servering.

Note on Modernised

Morter og hårsikt er erstattet av foodprosessor og finmasket sikt. Spiseskjeer er beholdt som moderne ss. Antallet vannbakkels er anslått.

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Frequently asked questions

What is the filling used for?
It is a game purée that is filled into small choux puffs and served as a garnish for soup. The recipe is from Henriette Schønberg Erken's "Stor kokebok" (1914), p. 73, and is counted for 6 servings.
How do I make the purée itself?
Scrape 125 g cooked, cold game meat and pound it fine together with 3 tablespoons cream and 60 g butter that has been stirred soft. Add everything a little at a time, press the mixture through a fine hair sieve, and season with salt and pepper. Finally fold in 2 tablespoons stiffly whipped cream.
Can I use modern kitchen equipment instead of a hair sieve and mortar?
Yes, a food processor or immersion blender gives the same finely ground result; sieve through a fine-mesh sieve if you want a completely smooth purée. The stiffly whipped cream is folded in last to keep the filling airy.
Which meat is suitable?
Any cooked, cold game meat can be used – for example ptarmigan, hare, or roe deer – preferably leftovers from earlier meals.

Equipment for this dish

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