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Crayfish soufflé (soufflé d'écrevisses)

Crayfish soufflé from Erken 1914: a thick milk-and-flour base seasoned with pepper and nutmeg, stirred with parmesan, crayfish butter, butter and egg yolks, folded with stiffly beaten egg whites and layered with crayfish tails and truffle slices in an ovenproof dish, baked about 25 minutes in a moderate oven.

Source: Henriette Schønberg Erken, Stor kokebok, 1914-utg. s. 152 (falt i det fri)

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About the dish

Soufflés in the French style were among the most refined dishes in Norwegian gentry kitchens around 1900. Erken gives the dish both a Norwegian and a French name, as she often does with the finest party dishes.

How to make it

  1. 1

    Make the base

    Put the flour in a pot and mix it little by little with the milk into a smooth mass. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg, and bring it to a boil while stirring constantly.

  2. 2

    Stir in flavor

    Take the pot off the heat at once and stir in the grated parmesan, crayfish butter, butter and the egg yolks.

  3. 3

    Fold in the egg whites

    Whisk the egg whites stiff and fold them carefully into the mixture.

  4. 4

    Put in the dish

    Layer the mixture with cleaned crayfish tails and truffle slices in a greased, ovenproof dish – mixture on the bottom and on top.

  5. 5

    Bake

    Bake the soufflé in a not-too-hot oven, about 180 °C (355 °F), for about 25 minutes, and serve at once.

Changes from the original

Measures modernized: the archaic "del." → deciliters, "tablespoonfuls" → tablespoons. "Dough on the bottom and on top" has been read as "mixture on the bottom and on top." The oven temperature ("not too hot an oven") has been given as about 180 °C (355 °F).

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Time machine – what changed?

Pick two editions and see what Henriette Schønberg Erken added, removed or changed between them.

Modernised → 1914 (proofread, p. 152)~77% of the text changedremovedadded
kreps (kokte, halene renset – ca. 25–30 stk). Krebs trøfler (i skiver). 250 g hvetemel. gr. hvetemel 6 dl melk. del. melk salt (etter smak). pepper (etter smak). muskat (etter smak). 100 g revet parmesan. gr. reven parmesanost 45 g smør (pluss gr. smør til formen). 5 stk egg (delt i plomme og hvite). 2 ss krepsesmør. Ha melet spiseskeer krebsesmør. Melet haves i en gryte jerngryte og bland det blandes litt etter efter litt med melken til en jevn masse. Tilsett salt, melken, tilsættes pepper og muskat, og gi det gives et oppkok opkok under stadig omrøring.. Ta gryten omrøren; tages straks av varmen og rør inn revet parmesan, krepsesmør, smør ilden og eggeplommene.. Visp eggehvitene stive irøres den revne ost, krebsesmørret, smørret, eggeblommerne og vend dem forsiktig inn i massen.. Legg massen tilsidst de stivvispede eggehviter. Denne masse lægges lagvis med de rensede krepsehaler krebsehaler og trøffelskiver i en smurt, ildfast form – masse nederst form. Masse underst og øverst.. Stek suffléen øverst. Souffléen stekes i ikke for varm ovn, ovn ca. 180 °C, i omtrent 25 minutter, og server straks. minutter.

Note on Modernised

Mål modernisert: «del.» → desiliter, «spiseskeer» → spiseskjeer. «Deig underst og øverst» er lest som «masse underst og øverst». Ovnstemperatur («ikke for varm ovn») er angitt til ca. 180 °C.

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Frequently asked questions

How long should the crayfish soufflé bake?
About 25 minutes in a not-too-hot oven. Total time for the dish is around 70 minutes, including preparing the base.
How is the base made?
250 g wheat flour is stirred out little by little with 6 dl milk in an iron pot, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg and brought to a boil while stirring constantly. The pot is taken off the heat at once, and you stir in 100 g grated parmesan, 2 tablespoons crayfish butter, 45 g butter and 5 egg yolks – finally the stiffly beaten egg whites are folded in.
How is the soufflé arranged in the dish?
The mixture is layered with cleaned crayfish tails and truffle slices in a greased, ovenproof dish. The mixture should be on the bottom and on top.
Where does the recipe come from?
From Henriette Schønberg Erken's Stor kokebok (Great Cookbook) of 1914, page 152. The French name is soufflé d'écrevisses, and the recipe is meant for 6 servings.

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